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We don't save this data. Google use cookies for serving our ads and handling visitor statistics. If you find later that you need more shots you usually have to start again from the beginning. When moving between shots I find it helpful to look at the edges of the subject rather than its center. By watching the edges you observe how your movement occludes or reveals the background behind the subject. This effect is called parallax by people who like cool words like that , and it magnifies your perception of motion.
Even though the subject doesn't change very much between individual shots, the background does. If you move until you see a change in the subject you usually move too far.
It is always better to have a few too many shots than a few too few. But having way too many can be a problem as well. For starters, the software must compare each picture to each other picture in the set.
Even if math wasn't your favorite subject you can easily see how this could cause problems. I generally try to capture the object as a whole by making a couple of complete revolutions around it at different angles and then I move in on areas of specific interest.
When picking your angles think coverage, not comfort. Crawling around in the mud to get the low angle perspective is not much fun but you may need those shots. A DSLR with a flip out screen can really help as you can hold the camera at knee height and use the screen to frame the shots. The same is true for overhead shots. As you make your shots pay attention to your exposure settings.
If you are at a low angle, shooting up towards the sky you may want to overexpose your image an EV or two. This is because the camera's meter tends to pick up the light from the sky and under expose the image. A little over exposed is always better because you can see the details. If everything is silhouetted the software can't get much data from the shot. You have a bunch of choices for processing your scans. I'll narrow it down the the 3 which are the cheapest and easiest to use.
For beginners my first choice is Autodesk Memento. It is cloud based so you don't need a super computer made of discarded Wii machines to run it. It has a good suite of tools for retouching your finished scans, it is easy to get started with, and it is free at least for now.
Autodesk's free consumer grade d Catch is another good option, but Memento is better. Agisoft Photoscan is a step up from either Memento or d Catch. It is a step up in quality, a step up in learning curve and a step up in price. It allows you much more access under the hood. You can pull off amazing scans where the free systems think you were scanning a marshmallow.
But it is a commitment. You need a real computer to run it. I process my scans on a high-end gamer laptop with 32GB of RAM which is marginal but it only overheats occasionally if you do something silly like leave it sitting on the sofa while processing a scan. Most serious users have a dedicated workstation with a whole slew of cores, a badass GPU preferably several and a ridiculously large amount of RAM.
If you don't just happen to have a cross between HAL and the WOPR lying around you may be better off processing your scans in " the cloud ", or as I think of it, " someone else's computer ". Assuming that most of you are going to take my advice and work with Autodesk Memento there isn't really much to processing your scan. It is a good idea to take a quick scan through your pictures and dump any garbage.
Anything which doesn't show the subject clearly or is blurry or badly back-lit needs to go. After that just load up your images hit the go button and go shoot another scan or something else fun while you wait. I would start with a simple scan with only a couple of dozen images for your first go. That way it will process quickly and you can experience the magic sooner. Don't expect perfect scans without a lot of practice and a lot of patience. I have been working on this for more than 2 years and my scans don't always come out, but at least I've learned ways not the scan something.
So now that you have taken a few scans, or at least thought about it, lets look at the qualities of a good scan. There are two basic elements to a scan, the mesh and the colored skin. The mesh captures the physical form of the object. This is all we care about if we will be printing the object on a single color 3d printer. If this is what you have in mind then turn off those fancy colors and take a long hard critical look at your mesh. An incomplete mesh can be repaired, but if the mesh looks like a marshmallow now, it pretty much always will.
The colored skin is variously known as a color map, a diffuse map or sometimes, nonsensically, a texture. It is a regular 2d color image which is wrapped around your model. This layer is important if you want to 3d print your object in color. It is also important for online viewing, video games and animations.
Most game assets are just an amazing color map concealing a low poly blob of a mesh. This is very disappointing for the would-be 3d printer. If you want to learn more about 3d scanning and printing please check out my podcast " 3d Printing Today " available on iTunes and Stitcher radio. I was thrilled to randomly find this article!
I have a complex architectural project that I am working on. There are numerous specific elements in this project that we would like to model in 3d for integration into the architectural model. We are using Trimble Connect for viewing and we are using ArchiCad 25 for our architectural model. I am an amateur photographer and understand the skills needed for the photographer.
I am not the one working in Archicad. How do I find a 3D generating software package that will convert into something that I can use in Archicad? I think it needs to be in an.
Hi, thank you so much for this article! I'm looking to do this in a hobby way to start, so perfection isn't critical. Thank you all! Question 1 year ago. Hi I need to make a flat 2 d pattern from my 3d image Would happily to it with a paper and pen and some geometry but I don't know where to start Answer 11 months ago. Blender has a plugin for exporting paper prints of 3d models in pdf format. It also lets you save a UV map as a flat 2d mesh.
Autodesk Memento is no longer available. I haven't purchased a 3d-printer because I have tried to create models using software and I suck at it.
If this works for me I'll be able to tell the 3d-printer manufacturer to "Shut up and take my money! Reply 1 year ago. You can go to fab labs and they can walk you through it and have good software and printers Its like anything paying a professional to do it is sometimes usually worth it.
And there's lots of open source stuff from fab labs.. Reply 6 years ago. Reply 4 years ago. Buy a robo3d printer, print pre-made things from thingiverse until you are comfortable with the printer, then start playing with tinkercad. Take the leap, you wont be sorry! Maybe you could just build your own! Tho, I have to admit, wouldn't want you to miss out on achieving such an awesome overall goal! You tell that 3D Printer Salesman! Scanning is a good skill to have in your arsenal, but you will still probably need some modelling skills to fix up your scans.
Great article. I work on the Memento team. I'm biased. The one sentence I don't agree with is the one saying that Agisoft produces better results than Memento. Our testing shows that Memento produces superior results in many cases.
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